Reply With QuoteJust curious: Did you 'pump' or 'stroke' the shocks first before you put them on? Here's more info:
http://www.competitionengineering.co...c2600_inst.pdf
I still owe you $10 from that transaction. I haven't forgotten...
I've never run drag shocks so as you read you may notice I don't know what the hell I'm doing.
I picked up a set of Competition Engineering rear shocks (C2700) from our local boy Hercules. The shocks are brand new. They have 3 settings 30/70, 40/60 and 50/50. I put them in the other night and just set them to 30/70, not any particular logic in that decision either.
Before the install, I hit the car with a 150 shot on the street and it felt like I was getting a bit of wheel hop as it was trying to break the tires loose (Nitto 555R 325/50/15). After the install I felt the same feeling. Should I have expected this to change at all with the new shocks? My car is a 94 fbody and has a Moser 9in, BMR tubular LCAs, BMR subframes, and BMR torque arm (stock style mount).
Another thing I noticed was that the stock shocks, when removed, will extend all the way open and have resistance when compressing. These new shocks do not do that, I could pull them out and push them in but it just wasn't the same functionality that I was used to seeing. Is this in part to the basic design of a drag shock?
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1994 Firebird 3.4L swapped to 355ci 93 LT1 M6. Forged pistons, stock bottom end w/ ARP hardware, ported heads and intake, stock valves, 1.6 RR, Holley 58mm TB, 42# injectors, hooker LTs, mufflex 3.5, spintech muffler, LTCC, BMR TA, BMR STB, BMR SFC, BMR panhard, BMR LCA and relocation brackets, BMR front lower A arms, Moser 9in with 3.89, AS&M CAI, Nitrous Outlet plate kit, FJO progressive controller, Single adj rear shocks, stock springs, heated O2s, vented opti, B&M ripper, pcm4less tune.
Just curious: Did you 'pump' or 'stroke' the shocks first before you put them on? Here's more info:
http://www.competitionengineering.co...c2600_inst.pdf
I still owe you $10 from that transaction. I haven't forgotten...
Last edited by Hercules; 06-22-2009 at 09:56 PM.
1999 NBM Camaro SS #4312
SLP lid w/ K&N, Delphi/Lucas 42lb injectors, Pacesetter coated LTs, ORY w/ dual cutouts, Magnaflow exhaust, Spec 2+ clutch, Strange 12 bolt, Detroit Truetrac 3.73 gears, LPW Ultra-Pro differential cover, SLP Bilsteins, BMR springs, BMR adj torque arm, BMR adj panhard rod, BMR boxed SFCs, BMR LCAs, Hurst shifter, 18" chrome ZO6 wheels
set the rears to as stiff as possible. i know some guys like to "weight trasfer" by making the rears sink, but IMO that is the wrong direction. you want to hit the tire as hard as you can and KEEP THEM PLANTED. 90% of wheel hop is b/c the shock cant keep the tire planted hard enough and keep the rubber on the track. i ran into wheel hop on my car with the transbrake launches, even set at 50/50.
i have the comp engineering rears (el cheapos that were 80 bucks for the PAIR) and run them at 50/50 (stiffest possible). i now need to step up and run a better shock but that is down the road.
as for front shocks, you want them loose on the rebound to keep the rear tires planted. worn stockers work well for 10 second stuff. faster than that and you need a slower rate of rebound and probably limitors.
finally, rick, i dont know what your goals, but i have always said that slicks are the best friend of any stick car. also an anti roll bar and relocation brackets are the two most important suspension mods. i knwo that stuff isnt cheap (well the anti roll bar) but its a must for any tq arm car. it actually keeps the tires planted.
1999 Firebird - slower than Tegs @ Sunshine.
btw, those shocks are good for 1.3 60' stuff. throw a set of cheap single adjustable fronts and you are in business.
1999 Firebird - slower than Tegs @ Sunshine.
okay, I'm starting to get the picture.
No, I did not stroke the shocks. That was probably my first mistake. I'll pull them back off and give them 10-12 strokes per the instructions.
I'll also put them on 50/50. Like I said, I've got em on 30/70 now which sounds like the complete opposite of where they need to be.
My current goals are to get into the 10s with the current motor. The car has run 11.82 @ 121 on a 26in tire with I believe a 1.9 60ft spinning for a good bit of the run. I've never 60'd better than a 1.9 with this car but have always run stock shocks and springs. I'd be delighted with a 1.5. It's got the power to do it just not the hook yet.
I know what you're saying about the tire and I do want to go back to a slick. The only reason I went back to a Nitto last time was because I wasn't going to the track and didn't feel safe on the street with the daily rains. I over compensated on the Nitto by going to the 325 (28in) in hopes of getting a good all around setup but I agree that they aren't ever going to perform the way I need them to.
I had relocation brackets on my last 10 bolt before I went to the 9in. I noticed a big difference in how it planted the tire and honestly forgot to get a set for the 9in. I need to do that. I've also been checking out the anti-roll bar since Godfather's been raving about how much he liked what it did for him and that's going to be my next "big ticket" item. When's my next stimulus check coming?
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1994 Firebird 3.4L swapped to 355ci 93 LT1 M6. Forged pistons, stock bottom end w/ ARP hardware, ported heads and intake, stock valves, 1.6 RR, Holley 58mm TB, 42# injectors, hooker LTs, mufflex 3.5, spintech muffler, LTCC, BMR TA, BMR STB, BMR SFC, BMR panhard, BMR LCA and relocation brackets, BMR front lower A arms, Moser 9in with 3.89, AS&M CAI, Nitrous Outlet plate kit, FJO progressive controller, Single adj rear shocks, stock springs, heated O2s, vented opti, B&M ripper, pcm4less tune.
I agree with Gator.
Any movement not going forward is wasted energy.
Personally I like to keep my rear shocks stiff enough to keep wheel hop at bay.
But really you need to make some passes and see what the car is doing first, to know what to do. But don't let the car wheel hop, that will kill the ring and pinion, axles and not to mention your teeth. ;)
Get to the track, Gator will get you going the right way.
We need a BMP meet up Rick.
First off do what Gator said, you don't want to waste energy compressing a shock. Use it to plant the tire. Next find out what the general setting (angle) is on the torque arm, and make sure your there, add the relocaton brackets, and then you need to loosen up the front.
Before Real Street there was only 6.50, and Stock Suspension. We formed this class as a transition class to fill the gap. That's why I feel it's so important to keep the integrity of the class. If someone wants the thrill of running as fast as they can without any concessions then Stock Suspension is the place to go. Why would you want to beat up on a bunch baby seals, when you can qualify deep in the next class up?
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I'm on vacation this week so hopefully I can get some of this done. I'm going to get the shocks set correctly and maybe get the relocation brackets on, I also have the gauge to check the pinion angle, then maybe run it down the track and see if there's improvement.
What do you suggest the pinion angle be set to? I assume I should probably get the brackets on before setting the angle?
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1994 Firebird 3.4L swapped to 355ci 93 LT1 M6. Forged pistons, stock bottom end w/ ARP hardware, ported heads and intake, stock valves, 1.6 RR, Holley 58mm TB, 42# injectors, hooker LTs, mufflex 3.5, spintech muffler, LTCC, BMR TA, BMR STB, BMR SFC, BMR panhard, BMR LCA and relocation brackets, BMR front lower A arms, Moser 9in with 3.89, AS&M CAI, Nitrous Outlet plate kit, FJO progressive controller, Single adj rear shocks, stock springs, heated O2s, vented opti, B&M ripper, pcm4less tune.
You'll need to talk to some that are more familiar with the F-bodys for the angle of the pinion, and torque arm.
Before Real Street there was only 6.50, and Stock Suspension. We formed this class as a transition class to fill the gap. That's why I feel it's so important to keep the integrity of the class. If someone wants the thrill of running as fast as they can without any concessions then Stock Suspension is the place to go. Why would you want to beat up on a bunch baby seals, when you can qualify deep in the next class up?
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Subscibing. I need to start working on the LT1s suspension.
I recently added a weld in anti roll bar to my 96 Cobra. It is a night and day difference. It used to twist and launch all out of whack. Now it pulls up the front end evenly.
Who makes a quality ARB for an F body?
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9.74@142 Daily Driven Street Car
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and its a stick!
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..........The Wife's Bastard LT1
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